Ladakh Vacation — Day 7 — Diskit, Sand Dunes
We were woken up early by the sound of strong winds howling outside. By the time we stepped out of our tent, things had calmed down but the sky was no longer the clear, blue Ladakh sky we were so used to seeing by now. Instead, it was a turbid, pale-grey.
On our way to the famous sand dunes near Diskit monastery, we came across a few domesticated horses grazing in a marshy field. Their clear reflections in water made it look like they were engaged in some form of auto-cannibalism.
Ladakh Vacation – Day 7 – Diskit, Sand Dunes 1
Ladakh Vacation – Day 7 – Diskit, Sand Dunes 2
Anywhere else and the sand dunes would be almost impressive, but being surrounded by close cousins of the Himalayas means that even their expanse doesn’t impress, let alone their height. The much-talked-about two-humped Bactrian camel is another let-down. All you’ll find is half-a-dozen gaudily decorated specimens of their species being used for taking people on joy rides. Given how the poor things looked, I doubt there is any joy to be had; not for the camels at any rate.
Ladakh Vacation – Day 7 – Diskit, Sand Dunes 3
Diskit, like a lot of other monasteries in Ladakh, is a cluster of squat white structures streaked with maroon, constructed on a hill. The structures look like they grew out of the mountains naturally, like mushrooms growing under a tree.
Ladakh Vacation – Day 7 – Diskit, Sand Dunes 4
On a hill opposite the monastery, a statue of ‘Gyalwa Chamba’ or the Future Buddha was being constructed. This is the first time I was seeing a statue of buddha depicting him sitting on a chair and not on the ground with his legs crossed. The statue was all concrete and scaffolding right now but I made a mental note to visit it again upon completion.
Ladakh Vacation – Day 7 – Diskit, Sand Dunes 5
As we headed back to Leh, we realized how drastically the weather had changed within a day. The sky was a sullen grey all the way till Khardungla and we experienced what must’ve been the first snow of the season. It wasn’t much, but just about enough to allow me to be technically correct when I say I saw snowfall.
Ladakh Vacation – Day 7 – Diskit, Sand Dunes 6
Ladakh Vacation – Day 7 – Diskit, Sand Dunes 7
Leh was its usual welcoming self. Bright, sunny and even a tad warm during the day. The weather just a few kilometers ago had shown us how temporary the summer here was. On our way back, we were stuck in a small traffic jam on a mountain road and had stepped out of the car. We ran into a soldier of the Indian Army who was headed to his base somewhere near Siachin. “Fancy living here in winters” he had mentioned half-mocking, half-challenging as we parted. I should very much like to find out one day what it is like.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 6 - Nubra Valley, Khardungla, Panamik
Our drive to Pangong lake had been a rushed one - partly due to the time constraints but largely because our driver was a impatient man in his early 30s who had been driving trucks in the region since he was 16 and wanted to be over and done with it as fast as the terrain would permit. As luck would have it, H. H. The Dalai Lama was due to deliver a sermon in Leh on the day of our journey. Our driver suddenly discovered that he had a spiritual side too, and decided to take a day off to nurture it there. We thus found ourselves being driven to Nubra Valley by a mild-mannered, amiable man in his late 40s.
Within 90 minutes of starting from Leh, we had left the Stok range far behind and were headed for Khardungla Top. As we moved higher, the roads that we had left behind began to look like they were mere lines carelessly traced by a child in sand. Looking at these photos three weeks later, even I find it hard to believe that these were huge mountains with roads built on them. Only the presence of the Stok range in the background manages to convey some sense of scale.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 6 - Nubra Valley, Khardungla, Panamik 1
Ladakh Vacation - Day 6 - Nubra Valley, Khardungla, Panamik 2
As you get closer to Khardungla you begin to see a few mountains with snow at their summit. And then, after turning behind a mountain, the pass itself makes itself visible. The scene at the pass is almost festive - with colorful player flags, a hubbub of tourists and the ritual photo-taking alongside the yellow board proclaiming Khardungla to be the world’s highest motor-able road.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 6 - Nubra Valley, Khardungla, Panamik 3
Ladakh Vacation - Day 6 - Nubra Valley, Khardungla, Panamik 4
The down-hill drive from here gets progressively easier and sceneic - with deep blue skies, the Karakoram range in front, an occasional patch of green and road signs that; given their picturesque settings, seem to convey succinct, Zen-like wisdom.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 6 - Nubra Valley, Khardungla, Panamik 5
We were again staying at a camp-site and although the tents here were fancier, they were as unbearably warm during the day as the tents at Uley had been. Fortunately, the place was a veritable Eden (with apricots filling in for apples).
Ladakh Vacation - Day 6 - Nubra Valley, Khardungla, Panamik 6
Ladakh Vacation - Day 6 - Nubra Valley, Khardungla, Panamik 7
In the evening, we went for a short drive to Panamik to see the hot-water springs. Given the landscape so far, my imagination had run wild and I had a picture of grand endless planes sourrounded by mountains with pools of hot, bubbling springs spewing steam and jets of hot water. The reality is often much duller and Panamik was no exception. An odd geyser or two inside a concrete enclosure is hardly what I had in mind.
We were at our camp just before sunset - things had cooled down fast and the very tent that was an inferno in the afternoon was now a snug inviting thing. The sort of setting where sleep comes effortlessly.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 5 - Pangong Lake
We started for Pangong Lake at the crack of dawn and for a good reason. There is a stream just before Pangong that you must cross early, or risk being stranded on its banks. During the summers, a distant glacier is known to melt and turn this stream into an uncrossable torrent. The unpredictable nature of the stream has earned it a sobriquet of ‘Pagal Nala’; roughly translated, ‘Mad Brook’.
We began to see Pangong Lake much before we saw this notorious stream - a sliver of surreal copper-sulphate-blue peeking from behind the mountains. And when we finally crossed the stream by driving through the river bed of big, rounded pebbles and saw the lake for the first time, it all felt very dream-like.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 5 - Pangong Lake 1
The moment we got out, ice-cold winds howled in our ears and lashed at our faces. You barely notice it though, because you’ve been numbed by the beauty of the landscape. The lake has many hues - a sea-green that turns to turquoise which finally takes an azure tint.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 5 - Pangong Lake 2
Ladakh Vacation - Day 5 - Pangong Lake 3
Somewhere in the distance, a bunch of colorful player flags that had been tied to a wooden pole embedded into a pile of stones fluttered hysterically.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 5 - Pangong Lake 4
This is a salt-water lake that freezes during the winter. Our driver claimed to have driven over it! While at a distance it might seem like an opaque blue mass, the water is actually quite clear.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 5 - Pangong Lake 5
We had not had breakfast, so a bowl of hot Maggi and a cup of tea in a small tent-restaurant near the lake was like manna from heaven.
We said good-bye to the lake with a twinge of sorrow - we would have to leave before noon because the stream, once it is flooded, is equally uncrossable from either side.
We had seen little by way of Himalayan wildlife till now -an Ibex crossing a road on our first day out and then nothing else. On our way back, things improved a little on that front. We were still swooning over a pair of black-necked cranes when a Himalayan Marmot came close to me, stood up on its rear legs - very Meerkat-like - and enjoyed being petted on its head.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 5 - Pangong Lake 6
This one day is the ‘keyframe’ by which the memory of our entire Ladakh trip is filed in our minds.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 4 - Alchi, Leh
The drive from Uley to the monastery at Alchi was a short one. The monastery was manned by a lone, old monk. In addition to handling his daily chores, he was also handing out the Rs. 20 ticket that would allow us an entry into the small temples inside the monastery. The temples had tall statues of Buddha and his desciples and walls covered in beautiful paintings - some dating back to 11th or 12th century. Photography inside is prohibited - mostly because the camera’s flash would wreck havoc with the colors of these barely-preserved paintings.
We came across this prayer wheel, a closer inspection of whose photo reveals that its lower spindle is supported inside a can whose contents were once “Tuna In Oil”. If Buddha is the man we know through his teachings, he might not have approved (though I am told that Buddhism need not necessarily imply vegetarianism).
Ladakh Vacation - Day 4 - Alchi, Leh 1
The street leading back from the monastery was lined with souvenir sellers. It is here that I first noticed (and was quite besotted with) lapis lazuli - used in all sorts of trinkets and jewelry. The wife informed that I wasn’t the first person to be so charmed with the stone. Having read the poem, I must say that Yeats meant the poem to be about everything except the stone.
I was again impressed by the very existence of such well tended roads under such difficult conditions. Strangely, they don’t look out of place. The mountains seem to tolerate their presence. The less poetic of us will maintain that it is a truce that the Indian Army has forced the two to sign.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 4 - Alchi, Leh 2
Ladakh Vacation - Day 4 - Alchi, Leh 3
On returning to Leh, we got dropped all the way to the Leh Palace. Summers mean restoration work and large parts of the palace were under repair. The wooden sticks and the drying mud-bricks at the Palace’s terrace looked like they had been spewed out by the various openings in the palace’s walls.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 4 - Alchi, Leh 4
The balconies of the palace offer a wonderful view of the town below.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 4 - Alchi, Leh 5
We walked back to our guest house and spent the rest of the day lazing around. We’d need all the rest before the long, early-morning drive to Pangong lake the next day.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 3 - Basgo, Lamarayu, Uley
On the third day of our visit, we drove along the Indus river - a river we had only vague memories of having read about in our history and geography books in school. Occasionally, the river would vanish behind a hill or a mountain but it was never quite out of reach.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 3 - Basgo, Lamarayu, Uley 1
Our first stop was the Maitreya Temple of Basgo. Repair/construction/renovation work was on at this site and except for a few walls and rudimentary structures, it is is hard to tell the old from the reconstituted.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 3 - Basgo, Lamarayu, Uley 2
Ladakh Vacation - Day 3 - Basgo, Lamarayu, Uley 3
We then drove towards the Lamayaru monastery. The terrain got considerably difficult; the roads unpaved and narrower. We kept encountering heavy machinery - excavators, ground movers and such - toiling on patches of broken road in perhaps the world’s harshest terrain. Often we’d encounter heaps of boulders strewn about a narrow road and an excavator working on them. All you can do then is wait patiently for the excavator operator to execute some tricky maneuver from his playbook that would allow you to pass.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 3 - Basgo, Lamarayu, Uley 4
On our return from the monastery, we stopped at a small shack for lunch, which was a packet of Maggi cooked with chopped vegetables and served in a soup-like consistency. A stream - probably a tributary of Indus - roared past us.
Our stop for the night was at a place called Uley. The accommodation consisted of semi-permanent tents in a valley surrounded by mountains. The Indus gushed a few meters below. There were a few houses nearby, but hardly a human soul in sight. The barren mountains, a few scattered trees enjoying their brief summer and the river below reminded me a lot of the place where the protagonists of the movie The Planet of Apes found themselves when they landed on a desolate planet after hundreds of years in space.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 3 - Basgo, Lamarayu, Uley 5
Ladakh Vacation - Day 3 - Basgo, Lamarayu, Uley 6
Except that we found quite a few trees that had apples growing - we were told later not for commercial purposes - and hence free of pesticides and fertilizers. They weren’t the sweetest apples I’ve had, but they had the most apple-y aroma I’ve ever experienced.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 3 - Basgo, Lamarayu, Uley 7
The camps are designed in a way that they collect all the warmth they can during the day and gradually let go of it during the nights. Which means that they are unbearably warm till the sun has well and truly set. A siesta was thus completely ruled out. We sat in the gazebo that the owners of the camp had so thoughtfully built. I was fascinated by its roof, made of layers of wooden bars.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 3 - Basgo, Lamarayu, Uley 8
Ladakh Vacation - Day 3 - Basgo, Lamarayu, Uley 9
It was a clear night and the moon was in one of those distant phases from full where it doesn’t meddle with your pupils’ dilation. What looked like a passing cloud turned out to be the Backbone Of The Night - The Milky Way. It’s the sort of view that makes you feel inconsequential. It is hard not to feel light because a realization quickly sinks in - no matter how big your problems, they don’t matter in the grand scheme of things - and the overall of scheme of things is very grand indeed!
Ladakh Vacation - Day 2 - Leh
We found it hard to sleep on our first night in Leh. We woke up at least twice and both the times our breathing was heavy like Darth Vader’s. When we finally woke up, it was bright outside and we were feeling remarkably fresh for the amount of sleep we had had. The first thing I did; even before we had breakfast, was to go to our guest house’s terrace and take in the view of the Stok range again. It feels wierd to state this, but so overwhelmed was I with emotions at seeing the mountains, that it felt like I was being reunited with a close friend that I hadn’t seen in years.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 2 - Leh 1
We spent most of our second day lazing around in Leh or rather we were taking it easy because our guide never failed to remind us of perils of altitude sickness - though he said we were free to roam about in the market a little. We left around 10:30 in the morning and walked up the Fort Road towards the Leh Palace. As soon as we reached an important junction we saw a restive crowd standing in a neat file on either side of a road - as if awaiting the arrival of someone important. And someone important it was - H. H. the Dalai Lama’s visit to Ladakh was coinciding with ours (though I am sure it was the other way round) and a lot of people had devoutly lined up to watch his cavalcade pass by. We too stood there surprised at the timing of our visit to Ladakh and the market this morning, and within seconds the Dalai Lama’s jeep sped past us.
It took us almost 45 minutes to reach a densely populated (by Ladakh standards) settlement of mud-brick and concerete houses at the base of the Leh Palace. It wasn’t noon yet but the sun was already admonishing us for being over-dressed. The adage about it being possible to get frostbitten and sunburnt at the same time was holding true; only that it inclined heavily towards the sunburnt part. Mutts sat half-asleep and camouflaged in the shade. We took a few pictures of the palace but bookmarked the long, up-hill walk to the palace for another day. We wanted to stay on friendly terms with our lungs.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 2 - Leh 2
Ladakh Vacation - Day 2 - Leh 3
We traced our steps back to the main market and saw a shop selling a collection of intricately embroidered Tintin t-shirts. A lot of shops in Leh sell embroidered t-shirts - a few throw in an occasional Tintin t-shirt - but this place had the most elaborate collection of detailed Tintin designs.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 2 - Leh 4
By this time our grumbling tummies had joined the chorus of complaining body parts (led by the lungs of course). We finally settled at the World Garden Café just opposite the Leh Police Station. The place serves fresh, charcoal-oven-baked pizzas, home-made pasta and hummus-falafel-pita bread among other assortment of dishes from all over the world. A visit is highly recommended.
We went back to our guesthouse for a short siesta and this time I noticed a neat cabbage-patch in the midst of all those flower-beds. The garden at the guest house would continue to fascinate me right till the last day of our trip.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 2 - Leh 5
The sun had lost its bite when we left in the evening. The lane that led us from the guesthouse to the main road was lined with trees on one side. The sun was now behind them and their shadows cloned their world in silhouettes on the wall opposite.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 2 - Leh 6
The palace and a monastery near it were illuminated by the orange light of the setting sun. It all looked very surreal - electricity polls and wires criss-crossing across the street in front and the palace and the hills behind.
Ladakh Vacation - Day 2 - Leh 7
On our way back to the guesthouse we saw a bizarre sign at a telephone booth. The door was open inwards making the sign difficult to click. The shopkeeper saw my predicament, went inside and held the door for me to photograph! One hears about how the various cities are becoming photographer unfriendly - no sign of that here!
Ladakh Vacation - Day 2 - Leh 8