Bangalore Vignettes - Opera House
When I had moved to Bangalore in the early 2000s, The Opera House building at the end of Brigade Road (one that meets Residency Road), was already well past its prime. Like hundreds of other such colonial-era buildings in the city at the time, it was in disrepair and mired in lengthy legal disputes1. I must’ve thought that it would meet the inevitable fate that awaited buildings like these - to be torn down for a glass-concrete highrise with a mall and offices - because my 20-something self hasn’t seemed to have bothered to even take a proper picture of the building. The only picture of the building I have from my time in Bangalore is an accidental one. I was taking a picture of the decorative wooden cornice at a (now long closed) Chettinad restaurant on Residency Road for use in my blog’s header2 and a large part of the Opera House building happened to be in the background across the road.
An accidental photo of the Bangalore Opera House taken in 2005
As you can probably tell from the picture, it was not in a good shape.
So it was a very pleasant surprise to return to Bangalore 11 years later and find this building fully restored. It was a little jarring to see it turned into a Samsung showroom and even branded as Samsung Opera House - but hey, if that’s what it took to save the historical building, I am not complaining.
The restored Opera House building seen from Brigade Road
It also seemed like Samsung were being a good custodian. There was a small open courtyard outside, freely accessible to the general public.
Samsung Opera House
The entrance to the Samsung showroom inside the Opera House
One Friday evening, as we were walking past the building, we heard snatches of one of our favourite Bollywood songs through the din of traffic and incessant honking. A small musical concert was taking place in the courtyard3.
A musical performance outside the Samsung Opera House
As the short clip below will hopefully testify, not only were the performers talented, the speakers they were using did a good job of projecting the sound and masking the traffic noise. Somewhat.
We joined everyone else enjoying the music on that pleasant Bangalore evening and stayed for about twenty minutes. It is one of my fondest memories from this trip.
Back then I had assumed it was. While researching this post, I came across this Deccan Herald article that confirmed this.↩︎
Because that’s what 20 year olds did back then. Blogs with comments and our curated blogrolls were our generation’s social media.↩︎
Presumably paid for by Samsung!↩︎
2023: My year in music
Each year I make a playlist of 52 or so songs that I absolutely loved that year. Here is this year’s playlist.
Most songs weren’t released in 2023, I merely discovered them in 2023. There is one exception to that rule in this year’s playlist. Lana Del Rey’s Mariner’s Apartment Complex. I had heard the song a couple of years ago but it slowly grew on me this year and got so much play time (along with the rest of the album it’s from) that it had to be in the playlist.
When I made first of these playlists in 2016, I remember being a little apprehensive at being able to continue to put one together each year. Well, it’s year 8 of doing this and not once has it been a struggle1. I usually end up with 3x more songs than I want to fit into the playlist. It’s now a year-end ritual to start with a longlist and gradually whittle it down over a period of 4-6 weeks. A ritual I’ve found myself looking forward to each year.
I started learning Spanish in 2022. Despite finishing a 500+ day streak on Duolingo in 2023, I feel the progress has been modest. And yet, it has already enabled me to appreciate the poetic beauty2 of many of the songs - songs that otherwise I might not have enjoyed quite as much. So while this year’s playlist has songs spanning many genres and languages - including English, Italian, Greek, Portuguese and Japanese, you might find it a little Spanish-heavy. I hope the lyrics won’t get in the way of enjoying the music!
Ok may be 2020 (aka “the pandemic year”) was a little hard, but then the year was hard on so many other counts as well… That said, I still haven’t mustered the energy to put together track by track liner notes like I used to in the early years.↩︎
Yamaguchi by Amaia, Yo no Necesito de Mucho by Laura Itandehui and Mañana by Silvia Pérez Cruz are three of my favourites.↩︎
Bangalore Vignettes - Church Street
I visited Bangalore recently after a gap of over eleven years. Naturally, I noticed a lot of changes - both big and small. I hope to share some of these through a series of short blog posts.
The metro entrance at Church Street did not exist when I lived there. I loved the colourful mural that it had been decorated with. It reminded me of Studio Ghibli movies.
Church Street/M. G. Road metro entrance building
Close up of the mural
Another new feature of Church Street was these footpath handrails. Upon looking at them closely I realised that they depicted the game of Rock Paper Scissors!
I didn’t think such a thing would have been possible, but Church Street seems to have gotten even busier! It was always a popular destination but with all the foot traffic that the metro station exit now sends and the many seemingly unregulated street-side vendors, it felt really crowded. Especially in the evenings.
I was sad for many of my favourite old haunts that were now gone, but also happy to experience the ones that were still around. The magazine store from this blogpost was (inevitably) gone. So was the jazz/western classical CD shop that I used to frequent. I was half hoping they’d have found a way to ride the recent vinyl record revival and survived. But the second-hand book store Blossom was still there and doing well. It now has not one, but two new branches on Church Street itself. That place calls for a blog post of its own. The Indian Coffee House had moved from MG Road to Church Street and it was around too! The liveried waiters still serve the usual affordable fare of butter toast, potato cutlets and their signature sweet coffee with a distinctive flavour.
The story of our plants: marigold
On our balcony we have two large, rectangular planters in which we plant all manner of random flowers and enjoy watching them bloom from spring till the end of summer1.
We had a very warm and dry June this year. Specifically, the average mean temperature was 1.2ºC higher than the previous record. A record set a mere two years ago. As a result of all that dry heat our flowers died out. We probably should also have been watering them more. The planters had been leaking water even after little to moderate watering, annoying our neighbours below. To remedy this, we picked up drip trays to place under our planters from a hardware shop. The shop had a gardening section that sold seeds. Since we were there, we picked a packet each of marguerite daisy and marigold.
I wasn’t sure when I’d plant them. The instructions on the packets of the seeds seemed to suggest that I shouldn’t expect to see any flowers this year if I were to plant them this late in the summer. Towards the end of June, the weather forecast showed that a spell of cool and wet weather was headed our way. It would almost be like late spring. I wondered if that would coax the plants to grow and flower.
One Sunday, in anticipation of the upcoming milder weather, I cleared the planters of the dead plants, added a few centimetres of fresh potting soil and planted the seeds. Worst case, we’d see flowers next year. The relatively cooler and wetter July and August that followed, were very favourable for the growth of the plants. It is likely that our packet of marguerite daisy seeds was mislabeled. Whatever is growing in the parts of the planter where I sowed those seeds is definitely not going to sprout any daisy flowers.
Not quite the marguerite daisies we were promised
But with the marigolds we seem to have hit a jackpot. The plants began to bud in late August and with some assistance from the unseasonably warm September weather, they are thriving.
Marigold flowers
Marigold flowers
Marigolds were ubiquitous in Delhi where Mansi and I grew up. They are a staple of the decoration in North Indian weddings. The flowers are robust, feature a festive mustard-orange-maroon palette and can easily be strung into long garlands. I haven’t been to a single wedding as a child where the kids didn’t appropriate a handful of them from the decor and playfully pelted them at each other. If you press hard into the marigold’s green base with your thumb and tear it open, hundreds of immature seeds would spill into your hands. I thus developed a passing familiarity with marigold seeds - even though as a child I had no idea what I was holding.
When I tore open the packet of marigold seeds from the shop, thanks to this childhood connection, I immediately knew that I was holding the right stuff.
A few years ago I would’ve been very sceptical about their ability to grow here. How would something that grows, even prospers in the much warmer and drier Delhi climate, adapt to the wet, temperate climate of Amsterdam2? But then our world has been growing warmer. Varieties of grapes from southern France now grow well in Maastricht and places as far up north as Norway are starting to produce wine. During the many walks through our neighbourhood during the pandemic, we had seen them grow outside several ground floor homes. That was confirmation enough for us to try.
I am glad we did! Given how excited Mansi has been about them, I am pretty sure they’ll be seen growing on our balcony for years to come.
Our balcony faces west and offers no shade. The plants bear the brunt of long summer evenings. We usually prefer to plant hardy, wildflower varieties.↩︎
A couple of years ago plant shops here were selling another plant I remember from my childhood in Delhi - bougainvillea. We got one. Our attempt to keep it alive past September were an utter failure. Despite keeping it indoors during winter, the poor thing hardly had any life left in it the next year.↩︎
Three letter strings
Consider all possible three letter combinations of the English alphabet. From AAA to ZZZ. There are 26 x 26 x 26 = 17,576 of them in all, or 626 per letter.
Some of these are valid English words - you could use them in a game of Scrabble. For example, ACE, BAT, ZAG etc.
IATA also assigns three letter codes to airports. You know, the ones you see on your boarding passes and baggage tags. Like AMS for Schiphol, Amsterdam. Quite a few of the possible 17,576 three letter strings are also IATA codes1.
For a comprehensive and entertaining look at these three letter IATA airport codes, I’d highly recommend watching this video by CGP Grey:
Some IATA codes are also valid English words. For example, YEA (Edmonton, Alberta, Canada), YES (Yasuj Airport, Iran).
And some English words are not yet2 IATA codes. For example, AYE, YEP, YUP.
The venn diagram of three letter strings, IATA airport codes and words
I was interested in exploring the entire space of these three letter strings visually, especially in context of 3 letter IATA codes. So I built a little web app that lets you see this information for each English letter.
It was fun to visually see how M and S are completely packed, while Q and X are still wide open.
The strings are sorted alphabetically by default. So if you are looking at, say the letter A, the first row goes from AAA to AAZ, the next from ABA to ABZ and so on till AZA to AZZ.
Three letter strings from AAA to AZZ, sorted alphabetically
You can also sort the list by type. This will cluster IATA codes that are valid words, IATA codes, valid English words and non-words together3.
Three letter strings from AAA to AZZ, sorted by type
If you are on a desktop browser, you can hover over each IATA code to see the airport’s name and location in a tooltip. On a mobile, you can tap to do the same.
If you really want to have some fun though, you can say ridiculous things in sentences of IATA codes that are valid words.
YES, MAD4 SIR CAN EAT ANY BUS, CAR AND VAN.
And for those of you that are a bit more ambitious, you could buy an island, start an airport and apply to IATA for words that haven’t been assigned to an airport yet. Looks like GOD is still available. Anyone?
p.s. Here is a plot showing the utilisation of three letter strings from A to Z:
A plot showing different categories of three letter strings
p.p.s. On an altogether higher intellectual plane - looking for words in amino acid sequence of a real protein.
Based on publicly available data on Wikipedia, as of today (11 Aug 2023), about 9083 (51%) of the three letter strings are also valid IATA codes.↩︎
Though YET is - Edson Airport, Alberta, Canada.↩︎
This reminded me of a defrag.exe from DOS days. Apparently, there is Twitch stream where you can watch a disk defragment all day.↩︎
The Indian city of Madras (now Chennai), got MAA. And there is another Madras - in Oregon, United States. Their municipal airport is MDJ.↩︎
A week in Malta - Day #4
I’ll start this post with the obligatory photo of the Mediterranean taken from our hotel’s balcony. Future posts won’t feature one because on this day we checked out of the hotel and moved into an apartment in Valletta1.
The view from our hotels’ balcony on Day 4
The apartment was in a street that was decked with green plastic festoons. I couldn’t tell if it was old Christmas decoration they hadn’t yet gotten around to taking down or if they were commemorating some obscure patron saint.
The street of our apartment
Our plan for the day was to take a ferry to the Three Cities and explore them on foot.
On our way to the ferry, we were greeted by young a British man in his 20s who politely asked us to wait a couple of minutes in the street we were in. A film was being shot next door and he was preventing people from accidentally straying into the scene. Film shoots are a big source of income for Malta these days2.
Our view while we waited for a film scene shoot to be over
The ferries weren’t very large but had ample seating space. They seemed to be mostly in use by tourists. We sat on the upper deck and I made a video of the short journey to the ferry stop. Never before had I seen such a large concentration of expensive yachts over such a small ride.
One still comes across pandemic era public health messaging in public transport.
Pandemic era public health messaging
Of course, no one took this one seriously. There wasn’t a mask or visor in sight on or off the ferry. I guess it’ll be another year or two before these signs completely disappear from our public spaces and from our collective memories.
The ferry stop at the other end looked positively makeshift. A decrepit building right opposite the stop warned visitors about falling debris.
A crumbling building opposite the ferry point
WARNING falling debris
This was the second of such a warning I had seen during our stay. Just a couple of days ago we had come across this sign at Cittadella in Gozo. It seemed like public buildings in Malta had to be either historically significant or dangerously derelict or both.
And after all, you’re my danger wall… Oasis reference anyone?
Just a short walk from the ferry stop was this art-installation that looked like a steampunk blimp. It was thankfully free of warnings about falling debris.
A steampunk blimp
We walked through the warren of narrow streets and enjoyed the (by now familiar) sight of colourful boxy wooden balconies.
A street with boxy balconies
It had been a wet start to the year in Malta and tiny plants were thriving even in the gap between the cobblestones.
Tiny plants thriving in the gap between cobblestones
Like that street on our first day here, the houses here prominently displayed tiny figurines depicting Christian themes. The statuettes of mother Mary and baby Jesus were most common.
A figurine of Mary and baby Jesus
A figurine of Mary and baby Jesus
The geography of the Three Cities was quite varied too. One moment you’d be looking at domes and spires of distant cathedrals from a good height and the other moment you’d be walking right along the water.
Thanks to the varied geography of Malta, the views were rarely boring
In one street, a small gap between two streets had been designated to a small shrine to Jesus.
A small shrine in the gap between two houses
We also saw a statue of St. Dominic inside a large niche inside a wall. I learned that he is customarily depicted with a dog carrying a flaming torch in its mouth.
A statue of St. Dominic
Wikipedia later clarified why it is so:
The story is told that before his birth his barren mother made a pilgrimage to the Abbey at Silos, and dreamt that a dog leapt from her womb carrying a flaming torch in its mouth, and seemed to set the earth on fire. This story is likely to have emerged when his order became known, after his name, as the Dominican order, Dominicanus in Latin, and a play on words interpreted as Domini canis: “Dog of the Lord.”
We continued walking some more and came by Birgu’s (aka Vittoriosa, one of the Three Cities) harbour front. The view of the blue water with sunlight illuminating historic buildings and fortifications in the background was absolutely magical. Little wonder then, it’s a popular location for making films, especially if their plots have a historic/fantasy angle.
A view of Birgu Harbour
A view of Birgu Harbour
A view of Birgu Harbour
A view of Birgu Harbour
A view of Birgu Harbour
We eventually settled at a small Italian restaurant by one of the numerous marinas for lunch.
The setting for our lunch break
A short postprandial walk later, it was time to head back to Valletta. The views from the ferry on the way back were again gorgeous.
From left to right: Siege Bell Memorial, St. Elmo Breakwater Lighthouse, Ricasoli Breakwater Lighthouse
Once back at the ferry station, we noticed that there were also gondoliers offering rides, probably to the Three Cities. We’d have opted for them if these were canals of Venice or Amsterdam but in these relatively open waters with a lot of varied marine traffic, they just didn’t feel like a good idea to us.
A Gondolier plies his craft at the Ferry point in Valletta
We walked back into Valletta and took the paid elevator to Upper Barrakka Gardens. From here we looked out towards the Three Cities and tried to locate landmarks we had walked past.
Looking towards the Three Cities from Upper Barrakka
We wandered a bit more but the day’s exertions had left us a little tired and we lacked the purposefulness of this morning. It was time to head back to the hotel, rest, grab dinner and plan our next day.
I am writing this post when Malta, like the rest of the region, is undergoing severe heat waves with record temperatures and power cuts. The rainy Malta we visited in Jan feels like a distant idyll. I’d rather have my vacation ruined by the occasional rain than 40ºC+ heat.↩︎
Theres a whole Wikipedia page dedicated to films shot in Malta↩︎